When you follow these simple steps, you will learn how to change nozzle Ender 3 (Pro/V2) or any other 3D printer is fast and easy.
If you’ve never changed the nozzle of your ender 3 previously, you may be wondering why you would. There are a few explanations for this. Although most stock nozzles are brass with a 0.4mm diameter, nozzles are available in a wide range of materials and sizes.
Brass nozzles are popular and excellent at heating and maintaining temperature, but stainless steel and hardened steel will not wear out as quickly as brass with abrasive materials such as copper fill or NylonX with its carbon fiber. There are 0.25mm nozzles for high-detail models and even 1.2mm nozzles for compelling structural components. When you change your nozzle size, do not forget to change your slicer settings. (Check the Best Ender 3 (Pro/V2) Cura Settings )
Furthermore, it’s very convenient to reduce downtime by removing a clogged nozzle, replacing it with a clean one, beginning a print, and then thinking about the clogged one. Every nozzle serves a function and has a specialty, but first, you must learn how to swap out, so let’s get started.
How to: Change Nozzle (Ender 3 Pro/V2)
Step 1: Collect your tools to change your Ender 3 nozzle
Gathering your tools can differ slightly depending on your 3D printer, but for Ender 3, you’ll need a set of channel locks or a crescent wrench to grip the heater block and a wrench to hold the nozzle. Ender 3 (Pro/V2) nozzles, E3D nozzles, and several other nozzles with M6 threading can be engaged with a 7mm wrench, but not all nozzles are the same.
How to: Change Nozzle (Ender 3 Pro/V2)
Step 2: Heat the hot end of your Ender 3
When the heater block, heat breaks, and nozzle heat up, the metal expands slightly, making the threads a little easier to loosen. When they’re cold, they shrink together so tightly that removing the nozzle will tear out the heater block or nozzle thread. We’ve seen it many times, and I’ve done it myself when I first began 3D printing. Remove any filament that is still in the printer at this stage.
How to: Change Nozzle (Ender 3 Pro/V2)
Step 3: Take out the Ender 3 (Pro/V2) nozzle.
When the hotend is hot, use the channel locks to secure it to the heater block. It would help if you held it firmly enough to prevent it from spinning when removing the nozzle. On the other hand, use the tiny wrench to grip the nozzle and begin unscrewing it clockwise (if you look at the hotend from above). If the stress is released, it should come out easily; keep unscrewing it until it is free.
How to: Change Nozzle (Ender 3 Pro/V2)
Step 4: Replace the Ender 3 (Pro/V2) nozzle.
Since the new nozzle isn’t hot, turning it will be a little more difficult because the threads haven’t extended, but you can do it mostly by hand and quickly gain with it because it’s cool to finish it off with a tool. You want to be careful not to overtighten the nozzle and tear out the threads at this stage. You could print Anders Olsson’s nozzle torque wrench, and once twisted sufficiently, the wrench would click and prevent you from turning it any further. If you’ve ever changed the nozzle of Ender 3 (Pro/V2), you’ll know when it’s appropriately seated; otherwise, this method is beneficial; we even have a few lying around the office.
How to: Change Nozzle (Ender 3 Pro/V2)
Step 5: Start printing with your brand new Ender 3 nozzle!
It’s that easy to swap out a nozzle. Now mount the largest nozzle you can find and print anything huge in no time. If you have any comments or concerns, we have a nozzle comparison guide that can help, or you can leave a comment down below.
How to: Change Nozzle (Ender 3 Pro/V2)
Top 7 Frequently Asked Questions about 3D Printer Nozzles
When should I replace my Ender 3 nozzle?
In summary, the nozzle’s lifespan is determined by the type of nozzle you choose (brass, steel, or ruby-tipped) and the number of hours your printer runs each day. A brass nozzle will last 3-6 months if you print once or twice a week, but if the printer is on all the time, it will need to be replaced every month.
How do I know if my nozzle is worn out?
- Near the opening, there are marks and grooves in the inner walls.
- The nozzle diameter is larger than typical.
- The tip of the nozzle has gotten dulled or shortened.
If you notice any of these symptoms, your nozzle is worn out, and you should replace it with a new one.
Can a worn nozzle cause stringing?
The most common source of stringing is the oozing of material when hotend goes from one place to another. The oozing substance cools and solidifies into thin “strings,” which the name came about. Let’s take a look at some of the things you may do to avoid stringing.
How often should I clean my 3D printer nozzle?
Poor quality filaments that have been heated or burned can leave residue in your nozzle. Even PLA can solidify in the nozzle over time, so we recommend draining it out every 200 to 400 hours of printing.
How tight should a 3D printer nozzle be?
The tightness of your extruder should be such that it does not compress or put too much pressure on the filament and does not slip. You’ll be able to calibrate your extruder by trial and error with test prints.
What happens if a nozzle is too close to the bed?.
There won’t be enough space for plastic to come out of the extruder if the nozzle is too close to the printing bed. You can effectively block the nozzle’s opening by placing it too close to the print surface, preventing any plastic from being extruded. As a result, nozzle blockage occurs, and you should replace the nozzle on your 3D printer.
Does the nozzle affect print quality?
If a nozzle is oval, the shape of the extrusion line will vary depending on which direction the toolhead moves. It will be thicker or thinner in one direction and vice versa. This could and appears to have, changed the surface quality of a 3D print.
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Get your free Ender 3 (Pro/V2) nozzles – While Supplies Last
