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3D printing elephant foot is an ugly mistake in the first layers, frequently accompanied by a tiny bulge towards the bottom.
For the project to print flawlessly throughout, it is believed that the first layer must be faultless. Unfortunately, achieving the ideal initial layer is easier said than done.
Elephant foot is one of the more frequent problems while printing the initial layer. This mistake is simple to notice and relatively simple to fix.
The initial layer of this 3D printing flaw flares outside, giving it the nickname “Elephant Foot.” Elephant Foot, while less noticeable than most other 3D printing issues, can be unsightly.
Elephant Foot does appear on the first layer, but it isn’t usually obvious. Sometimes, the weight of the higher layers adds pressure, resulting in the 3D printing of Elephant Foot. It is more problematic because you have already used up a lot of filament by identifying the issue.
Elephant Foot 3D printing is regarded as little compared to other 3D printer issues. This does not imply that you should ignore it, mainly if you are meticulous about details. It does not significantly alter the aesthetic of the original model and is fixable through post-processing.
The printing elephant foot is typically brought on by incorrect 3D printer settings.
1. Bed Leveling
Leveling your bed is the easiest step in the 3D printing of an elephant foot. Bed leveling is Something necessary component of routine 3D printing practice.
Check out How to Level 3D Printer Bed Perfectly article.
The purpose of bed leveling is to guarantee that the distance between the print bed and nozzle remains constant throughout. This dramatically simplifies the process of configuring the nozzle’s Z-offset settings. This remedy improves layer cooling and bed adhesion while also assisting in the prevention of elephant foot. Some 3D printers have a feature that automatically levels the bed. Whether they are 3D printers for kids or professionals, many new 3D printers have this feature. There should be no justification not to run it each time you begin a new 3D printing job if this is the case for you.
If your 3D printer doesn’t have this feature, you can level the bed manually. By adjusting each of the four adjustment screws on the bottom, you will be responsible for altering the bed height.
You can use a piece of paper or cardboard as a temporary “feeler gauge” by inserting it between the print bed and nozzle. At various points, this feeler gauge is put between the print bed and nozzle, with the screws adjusted as appropriate. The procedure is simple, and it shouldn’t take more than five minutes.
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2. Excess Filament at First Layer
Sometimes the bulging of the first layer is just due to the layer containing too much material. Some of the extra filament that the nozzle extrudes after the first layer is complete will push out of the side of the extruder. This is sufficient to provide the 3D printing elephant foot’s distinctive appearance. If you are sure that the reason for elephant foot is that there is too much filament in the first layer, try reducing the amount of filament going into the first layer by adjusting your print settings.
3. Excess Comparison for Top Layers
The base layer will always support the weight of the entire model, even under ideal conditions. The elephant foot, on the other hand, emerges when the foundation layer is unable to maintain this weight. Naturally, larger or taller prints exhibit weight compression’s effects more clearly. In some circumstances, the product cannot be avoided. Thus you must account for it in your design.
The simplest method is to start with a foundation that is at least twice as thick as the widest section of your print.
4. Insufficient Cooling
If the base layer doesn’t become firm, it will almost likely distort when it has to support the weight of the upper layer. The first layer that hasn’t been cooled will enlarge with time, forming a noticeable Elephant’s Foot.
Making the base layer as sturdy as possible or preparing for an inevitable Elephant’s Foot effect are two ways to prevent 3D printing elephant foot. Which alternative is more practical depends on several variables. Considerations include the kinds of 3D filament you’re using, the model you’re printing, and your capacity for editing 3D models.
5. Lower Heated Bed Temperature
Although a heated bed significantly improves bed adherence, a poorly adjusted heated bed can have unfavorable effects. It is an obvious indication that the temperature of the heated bed in the elephant foot is set too high.
As the 3D printing process continues, you might even notice that the elephant foot gets worse. The material cannot become stiffer and acquire strength if the bed is too hot for the filament. As soon as it must support the weight of the model’s upper layer, it is more likely to distort into an 3D printing elephant foot.
Check the recommended bed temperature for the filament as a first step. Make sure you stay within this range as you work. Lower the bed temperature in 5 °C increments if there is some leeway. If this is the origin of the issue, even slight drops in temperature should result in noticeable improvements.
As long as you experience no problems with bed adhesion or warping, you can even attempt printing at temperatures that are lower than those advised for your filament. If your elephant foot issue still persists after trying this, you might need to look into alternative options.
6. Excess Comparison from Nozzle
There is a reasonable probability that the nozzle will press down the material if the base layer flares out early on because of an incorrect Z offset setting or an uneven bed.
7. Print with a Raft
Printing with a raft is a more reliable method of preventing 3D printing elephant foot. With the use of slicer software, it is simple to produce.
Raft is a second layer of filament that is printed just beneath your model’s foundation layer. It serves as a sacrifice layer, significantly lowering the possibility that faults will be discovered in the actual first layer.
The use of a raft while printing a 3D object is generally a last resort. If you’re going to 3D print many things, a raft is not very practical because it can require a lot of filament that must be thrown away after usage.
The raft is typically used to encourage bed adhesion and prevent warping. In this situation, the raft serves as a stopgap to withstand a potential Elephant’s Foot mistake. You can take the raft out of the remaining print after printing. This keeps the foundation layer of the model looking the same.
The elephant foot defect’s underlying cause is not precisely addressed by printing with a raft. If you don’t have the time to adjust your printer’s settings, it is still a fantastic choice. However, alternatives that don’t involve printing with a raft are much more environmentally friendly.
8. Use Chamfers for Your Print
You can think about adding a chamfer to the model’s base layer rather than printing it. One of the most unusual solutions is it.
Simply add a 45-degree slope to the model’s first layers to create the chamfer. This effectively translates to a narrowing of the model’s base layer. According to this plan, the base layer will swell and grow to the perfect size.
9. How to Fix the 3D Printing Elephant Foot in PrusaSlicer or Cura?
Elephant foot is a somewhat particular issue. Thus, some slicer software has features that are specifically made to stop it from afflicting your 3D prints without you having to go through extra setting steps.
Although the name itself doesn’t immediately suggest how it relates to the problem, especially at first glance. The Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion parameter is the Cura feature explicitly created to address the 3D printing elephant foot problem.
Simply said, the Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion feature allows you to directly offset the model’s size in either direction and is the initial layer-only version of the Horizontal Expansion feature.
When the Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion parameter is given a negative value, the first layer will contract relative to its initial size to make up for the increased first layer area that results from the elephant foot problem.
Please be aware that to see the Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion parameter, you must set the print setting visibility to Expert or All.
Due to compression from printing against the heated print bed, the first layer is frequently a little wider than it should be.
This could not be a concern, depending on the application. However, it can become a problem if you require exact dimensions or tight tolerances for things to fit together.
The initial layer can be more comprehensive than expected without the Elephant foot modification. The first layer will be scaled or shrunk by this parameter, saving you the time of having to sand this tiny edge off.
Under Print settings – Advanced – Elephant foot correction, you may locate it. PrusaSlicer must be in Advanced or Expert mode to access this setting.
Conclusion
Elephant foot problems can be easily resolved if an appropriate solution is considered. Various strategies can aid in obtaining the most satisfactory results.
I would suggest starting with the quicker, more straightforward options before moving on to the more involved ones. If you know what caused it, you can immediately try the remedy that addresses it.
You should be able to quickly correct flaws in the bottom of your prints with a bit of perseverance and initiative.
